Grooming as You Grow, From Birth to Show

By Pat Hancock Reprinted from The Violet Connection, December, 2013

AVSA judges are told to "look for beauty, not flaws." However, when we point score plants, we are doing the exact opposite. We are starting with each plant scoring 100 points and deducting points for the flaws that we see. Having fewer flaws begins when the plant is very young and continues right up until show time. Perfection requires constant everyday care.

 The most common flaw that points are taken off for is small leaves under large leaves. We take off up to one point per leaf. On a large standard plant, this can be ten or more points when a whole row of leaves is smaller. However, if you wait until show time to remove these leaves, you will leave an exposed neck. For an exposed neck, up to three points will be deducted. It is far better to begin removing small leaves when the plant is very small. Removing small, unnecessary leaves early on gives more growth to the crown and plants will grow faster and larger.

Every two or three months, you should remove the three smallest leaves. Leaves grow from the crown in sets of three and should always be removed as a set of three. Plants should also be mold potted every three or four months.

If you, for some reason, neglect to fertilize a plant for a week or two — the result will be a row of smaller leaves. These leaves can also be removed and the plant will fill in. Do not fool yourself that these smaller leaves will ultimately grow larger if you start to fertilize again. They will not.

 Points are also lost for space between the leaves. Part of this problem is in the choice of plants to grow for show. There are some plants that will never have show foliage, no matter what you do. Years ago, I tried to make show plants by using skewers to move leaves around and try to cover spaces. It helped somewhat, but not enough. Try to choose varieties that have good natural symmetry and save yourself a lot of trouble. Spaces are not just around the outer edge of the plant. When you look down at a plant from the top, you should not see the soil in the pot. Leaves should "shingle" as a roof so that each leaf lies between the two leaves on the row before. Judges deduct up to three points for each space between leaves.

 Be very cautious if you decide to foliar feed or spray your plants. Spray residue can be extremely hard to remove and spots on leaves will cost up to one point each. Always use very hot water when spraying. It will lose heat as it goes through the air. Do not place plants back under the lights when wet. Spots may usually be removed with one part white vinegar to three parts warm water. Use a soft sponge to apply and rinse with plain warm water.

People who seriously grow for show keep their plants disbudded at all times until about two months before the show. There are several reasons for this, but the most important one is that a bloom stalk coming up may not be between two leaves. If you are unaware that it is there, it can distort the spot where the leaf should be and the leaf may become twisted or just in the wrong place. Allowing leaves to grow in the proper space unmolested is very important to the final shape of the plant.

Another reason for disbudding is that plants that have been disbudded for a long time really want to bloom. They will give a bigger head of bloom if the timing is right. Timing of bloom is very dependent upon your growing conditions, the type of bloom, and the amount of darkness and light.

 Growing conditions have to do with how warm or cold the area is and the amount of humidity. Plants grown cool will take longer to come into bloom than plants grown warm. Blooms on plants grown in high humidity will open more quickly than blooms grown in dryer conditions. Lowering light hours will slow down bloom and lengthening light hours will speed up the bloom. Another reason for disbudding is to discourage thrips. Thrips distort blooms and spread disease. Thrips are attracted to plants that are in bloom.  

Some people who are very serious about showing their plants also do something called "disblooming." "Disblooming" is removing the first large bloom on each stem. This tends to cause the rest of the blooms to open together rather one after the other. Try it on only a few of your plants to see if you like it.

Another question facing those who grow for show is whether to use rings to support the leaves of the plant or not. I have found people who feel strongly both ways. Some feel that leaves grow stronger petioles if not supported and some feel they need the supports. Try a few plants each way and decide for yourself.

Thus far, I have only mentioned the things that you need to do for the entire life of the plant. There are also things you can only do on the day of the show.

 1. Check for suckers — you should have been removing these all along, but do a last minute check to be sure. A plant with a true sucker (four leaves) will be removed from the show.

2. Use a soft complexion brush and brush from the center to the outer row. Support each leaf as you brush. Dirt on leaves will take off up to one point for each instance.

3. The very last thing you will need to do is check to see that all blooms are fresh and that

they are the right color. Remove any that are spent and that are not blooming correctly. Each spent or wrong hue bloom will take off one half point. If you have successfully done all of this for six to twelve months, you should be very proud of the plants you have grown and they should do well in the show.

Streptocarpus

By Holly Walker

 I grow under lights and really don't pay attention to how close or far away the plants are from the lights, but decided to measure for this article. My largest streps are about 8" from the lights, which are on for ten hours a day.

 I get all of my soil supplies from John Cook. My mix is one part each of perlite, vermiculite, and Pro Mix. I also throw in a handful of charcoal.

 Even though the experts say not to wick water streps, I do! I don't have enough time to water each plant individually. I use just one strand of yarn (single ply) because they definitely don't like to be overwatered. Most of the time I use Peters 20-20-20 fertilizer, or whatever is handy! I have read that streps like a fertilizer that is high in potassium but I haven't tried one of those varieties yet. (for readers who don't know, that would be the third number on the fertilizer label and that number should be double the first number.)

 As for pot sizes, I kind of use the same rule as for violets which is the pot should be 1/3 the size of the plant. Also, shallow pots are better than tall ones, as streps would rather be pot bound than over potted. I use green plastic pots purchased from John Cook.

 As the blossoms start dying, remove them. Once all the flowers on a stalk have been removed, cut the stalk as low as possible. Don't worry if the soil dries out and your plant wilts as it can withstand that. Just water the plant and it will perk right up again.

 I only divide my streps if it's a huge pot of many plants. When I repot, I take off some of the larger, outer leaves that have started to yellow a bit.

 As for propagation, I use one of the fresher, dark green leaves toward the center of the plant. I use a razor blade and cut the leaf lengthwise on either side of the "mid rib". Then, I cut those long strips into three or four smaller strips. I make a few rows of indentations in the soil and place the cut sides of the pieces down into the soil mix. I use the same soil for propagation as I do for other potting. I use clear plastic salad-type take-out containers that have tops. I make sure the soil stays moist. In about six weeks, small plantlets should start to appear. Once they're about 2" in size, you can separate them from the leaf and pot them up, individually, into small pots.

 

Wicking for Maximum Benefit

                                                                                             By Marie Montague

 Most of us are aware that wicking consists of three components:  soil, wick, and container.

This allows growers to water their plants just once a week. Gosh, newer pots are neat and clean and provide water as plants need for a week; but, for some of us who are away longer periods, once a week does not work. During the summer, my plants may only be watered every three weeks. Yes, they survive and many bloom all summer. Wish they wouldn’t bloom but they do.

How is this done?

 A light soil is essential. 2 parts peat, 1 part perlite and 1 part vermiculite with lime and charcoal is my choice.

 The wick must be heavy enough to absorb water. String, yarn or nylon stockings; whatever your choice might be. The key is the wick must pull up a large amount of water continually. Over the years, I’ve used all three and find that nylon stockings cut 1/4 wide and stretched out work best for me. Try all wicking materials until you are comfortable with one. A large standard requires a larger wick than minis or semi-miniatures.

 The container must be large enough to hold sufficient water for three weeks. My experience is that smaller pots require 3 inches of water; and larger, standards, 4 inches or more. Trailers are never a problem as the pots sit directly on large, plastic containers filled with over 3 inches of water.

 Recently after away for 3 1/2 weeks, noticed that only problem I had was with large standards. Hate to do this, but will have to go back to Cool Whip containers and fill to the top with water. That’s the only way that I can assure they won’t dry out. They are ugly, unstable and you have to be careful to insert the wick through the top so it doesn’t touch the side. I’ve used in the past and know this will work – ugly as they are.

 In addition, I top water all my plants and then fill containers right to the top to connect with wicks. Turning lights down helps as well as stopping my fertilizer plan during the hottest months.

 I have found through the years, that plants for sale that contain a good part perlite and light wicks dry out within 2-3 days. Heavy soil and wicks can last a good week without water.

 As with all new techniques, try on a few plants to see if it works for you.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Think About It

By Colleen Delmolino

Reprint From July 1980 Ye Bay Stater

Even though our shows may be a distance away, one cannot procrastinate in regards to the care given African violets.

 REMEMBER—a few minutes a day keeps trouble away!

 It only takes a moment to check and see if plants need water, if their leaves should be brushed and/or washed; is it fertilizing time (if you don’t subscribe to the constant feed method); any signs of “trouble”? Catch “trouble” before it is too late. Does the plant need repotting?

Take each phase of the care that your African violet requires, step by step, and on a regular and consistent basis. That will help you to achieve success.

 Haphazard care and prolonged periods of neglect only breed trouble (and don’t be fooled by those who claim that their magnificent were only the products of “those who thrive on neglect.” That just isn’t so.) You might get away with letting a plant wilt once, but don’t think you can get away with it too often. And then one has the tendency to drown the same plant. Severe damage will eventually occur. So, again, we can’t let constant care go by the wayside.

 REMEMBER: A few minutes each day pays off in the end; and haphazard care and prolonged neglect will only result in failure.

Designing With African Violets

By Suzanne Ress

 Understanding the basics of using African violets in flower design will let people participate in several ways – it will deepen your appreciation of the creations of others and it might free you to try your hand at it yourself.

 1. Read the Show Schedule. The Schedule lets you know the theme for the designs, the image that you will interpret. It also tells you the restrictions for each design – size, allowable materials to use, type of accessory or color, all of which are important considerations. The Rules at the back of the Schedule must also be read, because they lay down the law regarding special circumstances; for example, can a design touch the sides of the niche, or who to contact to make your design reservation.

 2. Read the Design section of the AVSA Judges and Exhibitors Handbook. The Handbook is available from AVSA and the design section is a succinctly written guideline to design that can be a little overwhelming because it contains so much information. Reading it will give you an excellent base for understanding the components of a good design. Reading it will also give you an excellent understanding of what the judges are looking for and how they will score a design. The most creative interpretation will not do well if the designer does not incorporate the guidelines in the Schedule, the principles of design presented in the Handbook, and the scale of points used by the judges for that particular design class.

 3. The African violet must be the focal point of the design (except in Container Gardens). Step back from your creation and look at it. Your eye should naturally focus first on the African violet in the design. The accessories are there to support the African violet, add to the interpretation of the theme, and enhance the line and proportion of the overall design. You should not be distracted by the container, the other plant material used, the background, or by the proportions of the design not fitting the size of the niche used. Also, neatness really counts. The mechanics of your design should not show. This means the Oasis used to hold the flowers, or the plastic used to hold your root-ball, should not be seen. Blobs of glue, nails, tacks, tape, should all be invisible. Practice using these materials and take a hard look at your finished design to check for these faults.

 4. Once you have finished your design, go back and remove at least 1/3 of the material. When it comes to African violets and design, less is more. The delicate flowers and smaller leaves are easily overwhelmed by using masses of other plant material or get lost in elaborate containers (see Rule 3). Too much material obscures the line and flow of the design and makes it look heavy and blocky. It is important that you do at least one dry run before the show so you know what you’re going to do, what you’re going to use, and to give yourself a chance to evaluate and redo the design, if necessary. Because the proportion of the design to the niche size is extremely important, an invaluable aid is to use cardboard to build yourself a niche of the correct size. Then you can use it as you work to ensure that the design “fills the space”. Although this is not a hard-and-fast-rule, when I design, I try to place the violets in the middle third of the niche, so they are not too close to the base, and there will be material extending into the top 1/3 of the area.

 Other recommendations for improving your design skills include looking at pictures of Japanese flower design. Their use of space, line, and proportion will give you a good idea of what you should be looking for in your own designs. Buy a hot glue gun and practice with it. Hot glue is the designer’s friend, but takes getting used to. This next one will be very difficult for most of us – go to yard sales and craft stores and keep an eye out for stuff that could be put to good use in design.

 The people who came to the meeting and tried creating a 6-inch design all said they had a good time, were encouraged by their results, and were willing to do it again. What more can you ask for?

 

Wick Watering African Violets

By Sharon McLaurin

 You can learn a lot from your fellow club members. A few months ago, Bay State met at a member’s house. She was gracious enough to let members see her collection. What I noticed mostly was that she was wick watering. Her plants were health and happy. Hum! I think I should try it.

Materials needed:

Container for a water reservoir:

Deli containers with lids, Canning jars, Containers Siamese fighting fish are sold in, Prescription containers with lids that invert and screw on are perfect for minis in Dixie cups 

Wicking material

Acrylic yarn, Nylon twine

The yarn and twine come in multiple plies. You need to use just one ply for wicking. Synthetic wicking material is best. Organic material will deteriorate quickly and stop functioning.

Hard ware

You can use crochet needle or a long upholstering needle to set the wick in your pot. I use the long upholstering needle to set my wick. I push the needle up from the bottom of the pot. I pull the wick through so it just reaches the top of the soil. I tap the wick down a little and cover it with soil.

Soil preparation

You need perlite filling ¼ of the base of your pot. The soil mix I use is 3 cups Sphagnum Peat, 3 cups Vermiculite, 3 cups Perlite, ¼ cup charcoal, 2 tbsp. Dolomite lime, 1 tbsp. Bone Meal, 1 tbsp. Superphosphate. Shake ingredients together so that everything is well mixed.

Watering

1/8^th of a teaspoon of fertilizer to a gallon of water

I found the benefit of wicking over the summer was that the plants were less stressed and had a continuous supply of water. Your pots should never touch the water. Only the wick goes in the reservoir.

What I am experimenting with for the winter months is putting water in the trays to up the humidity. Since the pots are up on the reservoir not touching water, the water in the tray will not touch the roots. When the dry house environment started early November, the flower buds were drying out. With the water in the tray the humidity is reversing this problem. Time will tell how they fair in the spring.

I love my violets and will try anything to keep them happy. Wicking makes it easier on me as I do not have the frequent watering chore. I examine, rotate and groom. Don’t forget that praising your little green friends can go a long way.

Happy Growing.

The best fertilizer for your plants depends on the source of your water supply, the type of potting mix, and the temperature of your growing area.

Almost all fertilizers contain the “Macro Nutrients” of nitrogen (for foliage), phosphorus (for blooming and root development) and potassium (for overall plant health). Some will also contain calcium and magnesium. Most city water sources contain calcium and magnesium in sufficient amounts. However, if you use distilled, rain or Reverse Osmosis water, you will have to add a supplement of Cal/Mag to supply these 2 necessary nutrients.

Many fertilizers also contain “Micro Nutrients” in very small amounts, which may or may not be listed on the label. An important one is sulfur which tends to lower the pH in the root zone. If your growing environment is already too acidic (below 6), then sulfur may make it worse.

The source of nitrogen is important to consider when choosing a fertilizer: ammoniacal, nitrate and urea are the 3 sources. Plants can only use nitrogen in its nitrate form. Ammoniacal nitrogen is easily converted to the nitrate form by the potting mix. Urea must be broken down into ammonium carbonate and then into nitrate. This requires the work of microorganisms. If you use soilless potting mix which lacks microorganisms, or grow in very cool conditions when soil microorganisms are inactive, excess urea can build up and cause fertilizer burn of the roots.

Depending on the type of nitrogen, the pH of the growing medium may be lowered or raised.

• ·         Ammoniacal nitrogen tends to lower pH
• ·         Nitrate nitrogen tends to raise pH
• ·         Urea has little effect on pH it is readily absorbed by  the roots

Some brands of fertilizer list “Potential Acidity” on the label. This refers to how acidic the product is and is defined as” how many pounds of calcium carbonate it takes to neutralize the acidic effect of one ton of fertilizer”. The higher the number, the more acidic. For example, one brand of 20-20-20 has a potential acidity of 597, but their 15-16-17 product has a potential acidity of 215. Your choice may be influenced by the type of plants you are growing – acid loving or a more alkaline environment.

It is recommended to use a balanced fertilizer, which means almost equal amount of each macro nutrient. These nutrients are delivered in the form of a salt. Using large percentage numbers can cause salt build up, so it is recommended to periodically leach the soil by pouring distilled water through the pot until it runs clear. Or repot at least every 6 months.

Remember, it is best to fertilize “weakly, weekly” – small amount of fertilizer each time you water. And then use plain water without fertilizer every 4^th watering. Some growers like to rotate kinds of fertilizer. Do what works best for you and your plants.

Propagating Violets From Leaves

                                                                        By MarieMontague

 Years ago when first setting violet leaves, I diagonally cut the stem (petiole) and placed it straight down in a pot. This was not wrong, but a friend suggested another way. Since he had great success with many new plants per leaf (8 or 9 in some pots) and, more importantly, lost very few leaves, I was willing to give his method a try. The following is his technique for “preparing a leaf” and my suggestions on caring for set leaves.

Preparing a Leaf

Select a healthy leaf with as long a stem as possible. Fill a (2 1/4") pot or a “Solo” cup (with drainage holes) almost to the top with wet soil. Place your leaf on the top of the pot and cut the stem, on the diagonal, to cover most of the pot. Very gently scrape the top of the stem with your thumb. If you look closely at the stem it will look a little shiny or moist. Place the stem on the top of the soil scraped side up and lightly add a little soil to the top (approximately 1/8”) to anchor the leaf in place. Water leaf with your favorite fertilizer (adding a little “Marathon” to treat for bugs will never hurt) and set aside so excess water will drain from pot (half hour or so.) Believe at this point the leaf bonds with soil. Label each pot with violet variety and perhaps date set.

 When will you know if a leaf has actually set? Check your leaves after about a week by gently touching the leaf to see if there is resistance. If the leaf doesn’t move, the leaf has set. If slight movement, add a little more soil.

 Creating a Miniature Greenhouse

 Set leaves like to be moist at all times, but never wet, and in the early stages keeping them warm is as important as moisture. Two methods work well in creating your own small greenhouse. Method one, which has been used for years with success, is to cover the leaf and pot with a sandwich bag (zip lock bags tip over) and secure it above the bottom of the pot with a small elastic. Check occasionally to make sure leaf is still moist. When heavy condensation appears, remove the sandwich bag and turn it inside out, water the leaf and place the bag over the leaf again. Still use this method when I receive a leaf that is a little “suspect.”

 The second method, which works if you are setting many leaves, is to place pots in a covered tray with matting (without sandwich bag.) Commercial trays are available but any plastic container with a clear cover will work well (plastic wrap can serve as a cover.) Check periodically to make sure leaves are moist. I prefer to water each plant, but, if time is short, just wet matting. If sides or top of container appear very wet, wipe sides and top dry with a paper towel. This is critical because too much moisture will rot leaves. Water each plant.

 How long does it take before new plants appear?

 This is a difficult question. It depends on the variety that you are propagating and whether you are setting under lights or near a window. Some leaves take 6 months before you see anything and then perhaps only one or two new plants, others seem to take off immediately and the pot is filled with plants. As long as a leaf appears healthy, one must have patience. After plants appear you might want to cut down mother leaf, or remove entirely, to create more space on your trays.

 When should new plants be potted up?

 Every grower has their own opinion and it is much a trial and error process at first. If in doubt, it’s always best to give the plants extra time.

 When one of the new plants looks large enough to pot up with many small plants around it, carefully remove the large plant and reposition the smaller plants in the same propagation pot to plant up at another time. The large plant can actually inhibit the growth of smaller plants in same pot. At times, after removing plants, you will find that the mother leaf looks healthy. If this is a “special” leaf and not easily obtained, cut at diagonal again and place back in propagation pot with new soil.

 Pot up to a 2 1/4” pot. This is a good time to add a wick and treat with “Marathon.” Most of my plants go back to trays where they stay until they are ready to be potted up once again to a larger pot, or in the case of minis and semi-miniatures, moved to a clean pot and new soil. Separate plants you want to keep in your collection from those that you will sell. Do yourself a favor – toss plants you don’t like.

Propagation Techniques by Carol Hess

 This African violet hobby is definitely addictive! I have never known a violet grower satisfied with only a few plants. They are easily propagated and here are 4 methods to increase your collection. Plants may be reproduced by leaf cuttings, suckers removed from the “mother” plant, bloom stalks or from crown cuttings.

Leaf cuttings are the easiest and most common method. First, select a leaf that is firm and healthy from the middle row of a mature plant;. older leaves from the bottom row tend to rot or never produce offspring. The leaf may then be rooted in water, but when transplanted, the fragile roots take longer to be established in the potting medium, hence a longer period before “babies” are produced. I keep leaves in water only until I am ready to put them into individual pots. Healthy leaves that have become limp can be revitalized by submerging them in tepid water for 1-2 hours before potting.

I use moist African violet potting mix mixed with perlite (half and half) in a 2 ¼” pot or a 3 ounce solo cup with drainage holes poked in the bottom. Don’t forget to label your pot with the plant name! Cut the petiole on an angle about 1 ½ “ from the leaf with a razor blade or sharp knife; the longer the cut, the more “babies” that are produced. I have had as many as twelve plantlets from one leaf. I then put the pots in trays with a clear cover. Clear shoe boxes or individual plastic bags also work well. If you have a plant stand, the best place is the top shelf as this is the warmest but the trays can be placed near a window but not in direct summer sun. I have even rooted leaves in plastic bags with a little potting mix and when space is limited, have clipped the bags to a string hung on the side of my plant stand. It is important to keep the soil moist but not soggy. If condensation occurs, I partially remove the cover. In about 6-8 weeks new plantlets appear. When the baby leaves are about the size of a dime it is time to separate them into individual pots.

Suckers are one of the fastest methods to propagate plants. Carefully remove the sucker from the “mother” plant with a sharp tool then plant in the same medium as leaves. If suckers are left on a single crown African violet, the shape of the plant will be distorted and prevent it from becoming show quality. Suckers are the most common method to propagate chimeras since this plant won’t “come true” if propagated from a leaf.

 Bloom stem propagation is a challenge. It is used to reproduce chimeras or a fantasy flowering plant. Ruth Bann, the hybridizer of the Rebel series of violets told us at the Chicago convention that she uses this method almost exclusively as it the method most likely to produce a plant with the same characteristics as the parent. The blossom stem (peduncle) is cut about 1 inch below the two tiny leaves that form below the blossom. Choose a fresh blossom with the largest sized leaves on the stem. The larger the leaves, the better the chance of success. Trim the blossom off the stem just below the flower and place in a small pot of moistened potting mix up to the small leaves. Clear covered plant trays or sealed plastic bags ensure consistent moisture. Plantlets will appear on either side of the two small leaves in about 2 months. Some growers use rooting compound but I find little difference in the results or the time to plantlets.

 Crown cuttings are not for the faint of heart. The crown or the center of the plant is pinched out leaving at least one row of leaves. The crown is planted and treated as you do a sucker. The mother plant will now produce multiple suckers. It is necessary to limit the number to encourage healthy suckers to grow. Once the suckers have leaves as large as a nickel they may be removed and potted up. Scraping the scar tissue that has formed in the crown will encourage another group of suckers to grow.

Now… where will we put all those new plants? Happy propagating!!!!

Tips From Other Violet Lovers

 Marie Montague realized that the covers for plant trays were looking pretty bad, but $60.00 to replace them wasn't appealing. She covered them with oxy-clean and let it set. Are they clear enough so enough light gets through to her violets? Absolutely and she is happy about not having to replace them. She will now use Perfect Glass to make them even cleaner and clearer.

 Chris Mason has tried covering the bulbs on his plant stands with saran wrap to reduce the light on his violets. This is a good remedy when you cannot move the lights further away from the plants as they are not adjustable. Yes, you could also reduce the time the lights are on, but Chris feels this is a good option.

 Joan on avconnectionn explains that if you want to propagate using a particular leaf that has no stem at all, you can make a new one if the leaf is large enough by using your razor blade and cutting up along side the stem on both sides. Then trim away the leaf portion which is no longer attached. It should look like a smaller leaf with a stem again.

 Wendy B on avconnectionn recommends Greenlight Fungaway for POWDERY MILDEW. It is a systemic and one bottle will last forever. You basically add a tiny amount to a quart of warm water and lightly mist over plants. There is a slight gasoline odor but it dissipates quickly. The plants absorb the ingredient and it kills the mildew. I've had one bottle for several years and have only had to treat my plants two or three times. It is a miracle cure as far as I'm concerned. There is a yard version and one for houseplants, so be sure to get the correct one. I've tried other cures, but this stuff just plain works the first time. Their website is: http://www.greenlightco.com/products/Fungicides.htm

 And speaking of powdery mildew since it is that time of year again, let’s repeat Pat Couture’s recipe which is ¼ tsp of the concentrated Lysol, a squirt of liquid dish soap mixed in with your gallon of water.