Growing African Violets That Win

By Pat Hancock

All African violets do not make winning plants! Choose plants that grow flat and symmetrical. Choose plants with leaves large enough that each row covers the space between the rows so that you cannot see soil between the rows when you look down at the plant. Choose plants whose leaves behave well and do not bend or twist away from their allotted space. Select plants that have five or more blooms on each pedicel — the more, the better. Choose plants that hold their blooms up well. Blooms that hide under the foliage do not show well. Select plants that hold their blooms fresh for two weeks or longer.

 Growing for show begins eight to twelve months before the show date and requires grooming the plant at least once each month and repotting every three or four months. Leaves grow from the crown of the plant in sets of THREE. As the plant matures, each set of leaves becomes larger and larger. It is imperative that as the leaves become larger, the smaller underlying leaves be removed. You cannot wait until the month before the show and then begin taking off small leaves. It must be done each month or at the most, every six weeks. All bloom stems, even the tiniest ones should be removed completely each time you groom the plant.

 Foliage should be kept as clean as possible and any water spots, soil, etc. should be cleaned off at once. You may use one part vinegar to ten parts water or just plain water with a drop or two of dish liquid, then rinse. Spots that remain on the foliage for a time are much harder to remove. Any suckers or side shoots should be removed as soon as they appear as they will distort the shape of the plant if allowed to remain even for a short period.

 Wick watering is the most common method of watering plants grown for show. With wick watering, plants are constantly fed, and there is a lesser chance of getting a row of leaves that is out of proportion to the rest of the leaves. With the constant feed, the plant will grow more consistently. Fertilizer during the growing period should be even numbers such as 20/20/20 or 15/16/17, etc. If you wish to use a bloom booster 2½ to 3 months before the show, that is fine, but do not overdo fertilizers with a high middle number or you will lose the center of the plant eventually.

 Top watering is fine as long as you never let the plant get totally dry to the point where the foliage falls down around the pot. It is very hard to get foliage to lay flat after it has been allowed to droop. With this method, you must fertilize each week.

 Bottom watering is also fine, but you must be careful to NEVER let the plant remain sitting in the water for more than 30 minutes. You must also never let the plant get too dry for the same reason as mentioned in the previous paragraph. Also, with this method, you must fertilize consistently each week.

 Show plants are judged by the Merit system, which means that each plant is judged on its own merits. Plants in the collection classes must be point scored and any plant that is in the running for Best In Show must be point scored. Each plant begins with 100 points and points are deducted.

 Plants not in the collection classes are mentally scored in much the same way, but an actual number is not written down. To receive a blue ribbon, a plant must score a minimum of 90 points, 80 for a red ribbon and 70 for a white ribbon.

 Gaps or spaces between leaves or rows of leaves, breaks in the symmetry of the leaf pattern, uneven distribution of foliage, over or under potting (the pot should be ⅓ the size of the plant), long neck, and plant not centered in the pot can count off up to 3 points for each instance.

 Points on plants may be deducted for many things. Smaller leaves under larger leaves is probably the way most people lose points on their plants. We see this problem at every show and it is so easily fixed. Hair, dust particles, water spots all count off up to 1 point. Marred leaves, broken leaves, dead leaves, yellowed leaves, suckers not completely removed, traces of spray, all of these may count off up to 1 point each. A variegated plant that is mostly green will have several points taken off, but a plant that shows no variegation will have 10 points deducted for that one thing

.Plants with a sucker (four leaves and no bud showing) will be eliminated from consideration, so it is very important to remove suckers completely as soon as they are seen. This does not apply to trailers and Species plants that are to be grown as in the wild.

 The foliage of the plant accounts for 50 of the 100 points possible. Monthly grooming is an absolute must if you want a perfect plant. Leaves grow in sets of three and begin with a perfect triangle. The plant will remain a triangle until at least three rows are in and perhaps you will need four rows before the plant is round and symmetrical. Each month or so (depending on your temperature and fertilizer) you will need to remove the three outer leaves from the plant. They will be in a triangle and they will be the three that are lowest on the stem of the plant. If you look closely, they will be slightly smaller than the next row above them. If they are not removed, they will take strength away from the next set of three that are trying to grow larger. You must do this each month as long as the outer row is slightly smaller than the row above it. All blossoms should be removed so that the strength of the plant goes toward growing leaves. This should be done each time you groom the plant.

 Blossoms, like foliage accounts for 50 of the 100 points possible. Quantity of bloom is 25 points if enough bloom is present. A standard plant should have an average of 20-25 blossoms. A small standard (8 to 10 inches) should have an average of 10-15 blossoms. Large standards should have more so as to be in proportion with the foliage. If a plant has half the desired number of blossoms (50%), a judge would deduct half of the allotted points or 12½ points. If a plant has only ¼ the number of blooms for the size of the plant, a judge would deduct ¾ of the 25 points, or 18¾, etc. Blossoms not large enough for the particular variety may have up to 5 points deducted. Blossoms of the wrong type according to the description (single, semidouble, double) will have up to ½ point each deducted. Spent blossoms or blossoms of the wrong color for the variety will count off ½ point each or 10 points if all of the blossoms are the wrong color.

 When should you stop disbudding? Doubles normally take a bit longer to come into bloom than do singles or semi-doubles. Ruffled or frilled doubles may take a week or two longer. There is no real guarantee as there are so many variables such as temperature, humidity, nature of the plant, etc. Growers who are very serious will often grow two or more of the same plant prior to growing for show, disbudding each one a week apart so that they can keep a record of which one worked best for show. In some environments, the accepted rule of thumb is to stop disbudding doubles at eight weeks, semi-doubles at seven weeks, and singles at six weeks. I disbud about one week longer for each as my growing conditions are pretty warm and humid.

 After following good grooming rules for six to eight months, what do I need to do the week before the show? Several days prior to the show you will need to give the foliage a good bath. You may use warm water with a few drops of dish soap. Distilled water is best, but not necessary. Rinse well and let dry well before putting back under lights. If there are any spots on leaves that didn't come off with this, you may try the vinegar and water to see if they will come off. Always rinse well.

 Check the plant very carefully to be sure there are no suckers, stubs from bloom stems or leaves, or any small leaves that you have failed to remove. If there are small leaves, check to see if removing them would leave a gap or space. A space would cost up to 3 points and the baby leaf will only cost up to 1 point. It is best to leave it if it will make a gap in the symmetry.

 Prepare a list of your entries with the classes that they belong in. (You will need the Master Variety List description in order to so as plants are classified by the hybridizer's description and not by the way they look.) Plants entered in the collection classes will also need their registration numbers listed on the entry sheet. If you are entering miniatures or semiminiatures in a collection class, be sure they are all either miniature or semi-miniatures as they cannot be mixed. Check miniatures and semi-miniatures to be sure they are within the size requirements. (6" for miniatures; 8" for semi-miniatures)

Going to the show! Be sure your boxes are big enough for the plants to be carried without touching the sides. Carrying plants to the show can ruin everything you have worked so hard for up to now. Pack your plants with something that will not shed on them. Crushed paper is NOT a good thing. I like to cushion the plants with store plastic bags rolled together in a ring for the plant to sit in and then fill in around the box with more plastic bags so the plant cannot move in transit. Some people cut a hole in a smaller box for the plant and then wedge that box into the larger box so that the plant can't move. Whatever you do, the idea is to secure the plant so that it can't turn over and to protect if from any dusty particles that might reach it.

 Complexion brushes work really well for giving the plant its last minute touch up before entering. Always brush from the middle outward so that anything that might fall from the brush onto a leaf will be taken care of on the next row. Check again and remove any blossoms that look old or spent, or any that might not be true to the color. They can count off up to ½ point each.

 After all of this, you should be entering a plant that you can be very proud of; perhaps it will be a Best in Show winner!

The Power of Plants Reprinted from January, 2013 YBS, 

By Cindy Brooks

We all know houseplants are pretty to look at, but did you know they offer health and wellness benefits as well? Having houseplants can help you live a more healthy and happy life. Plants can be calming and provide a lovely distraction during times of stress or tension. Studies show that plants are effective in helping recover from illness and actually can speed recovery time. Plants contribute to a feeling of well-being and comfort that benefit everyone’s daily life.

Houseplants have the power to make us feel better just by the simple act of enjoying the sight of something beautiful. Plants have a positive influence on people. We respond positively to green plants and colorful flowers. Caring for plants inspires hope. People caring for plants learn responsibility and experience hopeful and nurturing feelings. Because we spend so much time indoors, due to work, taking care of children, etc., we often miss out on the serenity that greenery and colorful flowers can bring to our lives. By having plants indoors, we can access the relaxing benefits of the outdoors brought inside. Caring for a living thing can help when you’re depressed and lonely, giving you a purpose in life. House plants can contribute to a feeling of well being, making you calmer and more optimistic. Having plants to love and nurture gives us something to take care of (that can’t talk back), which can enrich our lives.

People with plants in their homes have less stress, and plants have been known to contribute to lower blood pressure. Indoor plants have been shown to reduce cold-related illnesses by more than 30%. This is due to their effect of increasing humidity levels and decreasing dust. Plants absorb carbon dioxide and give off oxygen as part of the photosynthesis process. They can help clean the air by filtering out gases and other household pollutants. In a 1989 NASA Clean Air Study it was determined that approximately 15 to 18 houseplants (planted in six- to eight-inch containers) would improve the air quality in an average 1,800-square-foot home.

Enhance your brain power with African violets. Gazing at flowering plants in the purple family, like African violets, stimulates the release of adrenaline. This energizing hormone improves creativity. Purple also triggers the release of endorphins, which ease stress and improve mood. Another perk: The body responds to flowering plants of any color by boosting oxygen flow to the brain, resulting in relaxation.

African violets - promote spirituality and peaceful vibrations.

Tight Centers

By Nancy Manozzi

 Tight centers may be caused by many things.

 Too much light could cause tight centers. Minis and semi minis should be grown about 6”-8” from the lights, and that’s the top of the plant. For standards, 10”-12:” works well. If you grow on a wicking container, you must take that into consideration.

 An incorrect pH could be the problem, which could be the result of incorrect or poor soil, too much fertilizer, or your town water. Perhaps, the plant needs to be repotted with fresh soil, especially if it’s been longer than 1 year.

 Now, let's talk about the dreaded mite. There are two articles in this issue, written by Bay State members, who have recently had broad mites. Broad mite damage will involve suckers/distortions in the leaves and curled down edges, as well as tight centers or centers that no longer exist. If you suspect broad mite, immediately remove the plant(s) away from the others. Unless it’s a very special plant, you might want to just throw it away, perhaps keeping one leaf, washing it off thoroughly, and potting it up separately.

 You may want to try and determine if it’s too much light by covering the plant with a thin piece of paper, like a napkin or toilet paper, for one week. If the center opens up, you are lucky and it was just a light issue.

 If after a week and the centers are still tight, you can hope it’s a fertilizer problem. If there are no twisted or distorted leaves in the center, then it may be just that. Cut back on the fertilizer one month or longer with a lower dosage.

If after one month and still no change, check the last time the plant was repotted.

 And if that doesn’t remedy the situation, chances are it is broad mites. I had this problem, myself, about 20 years ago, lost hundreds of plants. When I discovered the problem, finally, tried chemicals unsuccessfully. My advice is to discard any suspected plants—they can always be replaced!!

Question: I can't grow large show plants; my plants get to a certain size and the lower leaves turn yellow and fall off. What is wrong?

Answer: I had to do a lot of research for this question, as the person posing it is an accomplished grower. Finally I asked a lot of growers of larger show plants at a recent convention. The following is all the advice that was received.

Make sure that the variety you are trying to grow large will grow large, and do so in your conditions. A plant that will grow large for a grower in California may not grow as well in New England. Use a balanced 20-20-20 fertilizer, not a 12-36-14, as the large show plants need the nitrogen to keep the leaves a nice, healthy, green. Skipping fertilizer in the summer is not a good idea for the show plants as they are still growing and need the nutrition for the outer leaves to stay healthy.

A few growers I spoke with suggested that taking the plant off the wicking system in the warmer weather seems to help with this type of problem also. Another suggestion was made to take the root ball apart and make sure that there are no soil mealy bugs or other root problems. Also not over potting the plant, or allowing the plant to stay too long in an undersized pot.

Contrary to popular belief I was told not to disbud completely for long periods of time, but to allow the plant to put up one bloom stalk occasionally.

And the final, most common suggestion made by all the growers was the ph issue. Although this grower had tested her ph and it was in the normal range, many said that unless a soil sample was taken from the center of the root ball, it would not be accurate. With the mold potting method of potting up larger plants, we are not taking the old soil off, but just adding new. This does not level the ph throughout the pot. The older soil in the center of the root ball could be too high or too low and not allow the plant to absorb the nutrients it needs, even though the pH on the outer edge is fine.

 

Water Movement in Potting Mixes

By Sharon Rosenzweig

This discussion is geared mainly for growers who do not wick water their AVs or who use self-watering planters.

Water’s Natural Forces

Water is essential to growing plants. There are two forces of nature that cause water movement through the potting mix – gravity and capillary action.

Capillary action is a function of adhesion and cohesion. Adhesion is water’s tendency to stick to the soil particles. Cohesion is the tendency for water to stick to itself.

Every plant pot has a “perched water table” (PWT) which is water that occupies a layer of soil that is always saturated and will not drain through the hole in the bottom of the pot. The capillary pull of the soil equals the force of gravity and the water will not drain, it is “perched”. This is the area of the pot where roots seldom penetrate and where root problems begin due to a lack of aeration.

Various potting mixes have different size soil particles. Large soil particles have less surface area and less overall adhesive action. Gravity is stronger and the mix has better drainage. The PWT is lower in coarse soils than fine soils. Large particles mixed with small particles will not improve drainage because smaller particles fit between the large, increasing surface area which increases capillary action and water holding potential. The key to good drainage is size and uniformity of soil particles.

Myths Dispelled

The following information is contrary to what we have always been taught about potting African violets.

Using a coarse drainage layer under the potting mix does not improve drainage. It moves the level of the PWT higher in the pot. This reduces available soil for roots, reduces total usable pot space and limits potential for beneficial gas exchange. It is better to use a mix with uniform particle size throughout the pot.

Taller containers provide better drainage than squat ones. The PWT will be the same in both size containers, but the taller one provides more usable air holding soil above the PWT.

 Using Wicks

The use of wicks in pots will help to eliminate the PWT. The wick must extend into the PWT, so have the wick running from the top of the potting mix to an inch or so out of the drainage hole. The wick makes the water think the pot is deeper, so water begins to move downward seeking the new bottom of the pot, pulling the rest of the PWT with it.

Experiment

Fill a pot with potting mix to the top. Add enough water to fill to the top so soil is saturated. Allow water to drain out the bottom hole(s). When drainage stops, insert a coffee stirrer or narrow straw several inches up into the drain hole. Observe how much additional water drains out. This is the water that occupied the PWT.

Grooming as You Grow, From Birth to Show

By Pat Hancock Reprinted from The Violet Connection, December, 2013

AVSA judges are told to "look for beauty, not flaws." However, when we point score plants, we are doing the exact opposite. We are starting with each plant scoring 100 points and deducting points for the flaws that we see. Having fewer flaws begins when the plant is very young and continues right up until show time. Perfection requires constant everyday care.

 The most common flaw that points are taken off for is small leaves under large leaves. We take off up to one point per leaf. On a large standard plant, this can be ten or more points when a whole row of leaves is smaller. However, if you wait until show time to remove these leaves, you will leave an exposed neck. For an exposed neck, up to three points will be deducted. It is far better to begin removing small leaves when the plant is very small. Removing small, unnecessary leaves early on gives more growth to the crown and plants will grow faster and larger.

Every two or three months, you should remove the three smallest leaves. Leaves grow from the crown in sets of three and should always be removed as a set of three. Plants should also be mold potted every three or four months.

If you, for some reason, neglect to fertilize a plant for a week or two — the result will be a row of smaller leaves. These leaves can also be removed and the plant will fill in. Do not fool yourself that these smaller leaves will ultimately grow larger if you start to fertilize again. They will not.

 Points are also lost for space between the leaves. Part of this problem is in the choice of plants to grow for show. There are some plants that will never have show foliage, no matter what you do. Years ago, I tried to make show plants by using skewers to move leaves around and try to cover spaces. It helped somewhat, but not enough. Try to choose varieties that have good natural symmetry and save yourself a lot of trouble. Spaces are not just around the outer edge of the plant. When you look down at a plant from the top, you should not see the soil in the pot. Leaves should "shingle" as a roof so that each leaf lies between the two leaves on the row before. Judges deduct up to three points for each space between leaves.

 Be very cautious if you decide to foliar feed or spray your plants. Spray residue can be extremely hard to remove and spots on leaves will cost up to one point each. Always use very hot water when spraying. It will lose heat as it goes through the air. Do not place plants back under the lights when wet. Spots may usually be removed with one part white vinegar to three parts warm water. Use a soft sponge to apply and rinse with plain warm water.

People who seriously grow for show keep their plants disbudded at all times until about two months before the show. There are several reasons for this, but the most important one is that a bloom stalk coming up may not be between two leaves. If you are unaware that it is there, it can distort the spot where the leaf should be and the leaf may become twisted or just in the wrong place. Allowing leaves to grow in the proper space unmolested is very important to the final shape of the plant.

Another reason for disbudding is that plants that have been disbudded for a long time really want to bloom. They will give a bigger head of bloom if the timing is right. Timing of bloom is very dependent upon your growing conditions, the type of bloom, and the amount of darkness and light.

 Growing conditions have to do with how warm or cold the area is and the amount of humidity. Plants grown cool will take longer to come into bloom than plants grown warm. Blooms on plants grown in high humidity will open more quickly than blooms grown in dryer conditions. Lowering light hours will slow down bloom and lengthening light hours will speed up the bloom. Another reason for disbudding is to discourage thrips. Thrips distort blooms and spread disease. Thrips are attracted to plants that are in bloom.  

Some people who are very serious about showing their plants also do something called "disblooming." "Disblooming" is removing the first large bloom on each stem. This tends to cause the rest of the blooms to open together rather one after the other. Try it on only a few of your plants to see if you like it.

Another question facing those who grow for show is whether to use rings to support the leaves of the plant or not. I have found people who feel strongly both ways. Some feel that leaves grow stronger petioles if not supported and some feel they need the supports. Try a few plants each way and decide for yourself.

Thus far, I have only mentioned the things that you need to do for the entire life of the plant. There are also things you can only do on the day of the show.

 1. Check for suckers — you should have been removing these all along, but do a last minute check to be sure. A plant with a true sucker (four leaves) will be removed from the show.

2. Use a soft complexion brush and brush from the center to the outer row. Support each leaf as you brush. Dirt on leaves will take off up to one point for each instance.

3. The very last thing you will need to do is check to see that all blooms are fresh and that

they are the right color. Remove any that are spent and that are not blooming correctly. Each spent or wrong hue bloom will take off one half point. If you have successfully done all of this for six to twelve months, you should be very proud of the plants you have grown and they should do well in the show.

Streptocarpus

By Holly Walker

 I grow under lights and really don't pay attention to how close or far away the plants are from the lights, but decided to measure for this article. My largest streps are about 8" from the lights, which are on for ten hours a day.

 I get all of my soil supplies from John Cook. My mix is one part each of perlite, vermiculite, and Pro Mix. I also throw in a handful of charcoal.

 Even though the experts say not to wick water streps, I do! I don't have enough time to water each plant individually. I use just one strand of yarn (single ply) because they definitely don't like to be overwatered. Most of the time I use Peters 20-20-20 fertilizer, or whatever is handy! I have read that streps like a fertilizer that is high in potassium but I haven't tried one of those varieties yet. (for readers who don't know, that would be the third number on the fertilizer label and that number should be double the first number.)

 As for pot sizes, I kind of use the same rule as for violets which is the pot should be 1/3 the size of the plant. Also, shallow pots are better than tall ones, as streps would rather be pot bound than over potted. I use green plastic pots purchased from John Cook.

 As the blossoms start dying, remove them. Once all the flowers on a stalk have been removed, cut the stalk as low as possible. Don't worry if the soil dries out and your plant wilts as it can withstand that. Just water the plant and it will perk right up again.

 I only divide my streps if it's a huge pot of many plants. When I repot, I take off some of the larger, outer leaves that have started to yellow a bit.

 As for propagation, I use one of the fresher, dark green leaves toward the center of the plant. I use a razor blade and cut the leaf lengthwise on either side of the "mid rib". Then, I cut those long strips into three or four smaller strips. I make a few rows of indentations in the soil and place the cut sides of the pieces down into the soil mix. I use the same soil for propagation as I do for other potting. I use clear plastic salad-type take-out containers that have tops. I make sure the soil stays moist. In about six weeks, small plantlets should start to appear. Once they're about 2" in size, you can separate them from the leaf and pot them up, individually, into small pots.

 

Wicking for Maximum Benefit

                                                                                             By Marie Montague

 Most of us are aware that wicking consists of three components:  soil, wick, and container.

This allows growers to water their plants just once a week. Gosh, newer pots are neat and clean and provide water as plants need for a week; but, for some of us who are away longer periods, once a week does not work. During the summer, my plants may only be watered every three weeks. Yes, they survive and many bloom all summer. Wish they wouldn’t bloom but they do.

How is this done?

 A light soil is essential. 2 parts peat, 1 part perlite and 1 part vermiculite with lime and charcoal is my choice.

 The wick must be heavy enough to absorb water. String, yarn or nylon stockings; whatever your choice might be. The key is the wick must pull up a large amount of water continually. Over the years, I’ve used all three and find that nylon stockings cut 1/4 wide and stretched out work best for me. Try all wicking materials until you are comfortable with one. A large standard requires a larger wick than minis or semi-miniatures.

 The container must be large enough to hold sufficient water for three weeks. My experience is that smaller pots require 3 inches of water; and larger, standards, 4 inches or more. Trailers are never a problem as the pots sit directly on large, plastic containers filled with over 3 inches of water.

 Recently after away for 3 1/2 weeks, noticed that only problem I had was with large standards. Hate to do this, but will have to go back to Cool Whip containers and fill to the top with water. That’s the only way that I can assure they won’t dry out. They are ugly, unstable and you have to be careful to insert the wick through the top so it doesn’t touch the side. I’ve used in the past and know this will work – ugly as they are.

 In addition, I top water all my plants and then fill containers right to the top to connect with wicks. Turning lights down helps as well as stopping my fertilizer plan during the hottest months.

 I have found through the years, that plants for sale that contain a good part perlite and light wicks dry out within 2-3 days. Heavy soil and wicks can last a good week without water.

 As with all new techniques, try on a few plants to see if it works for you.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Think About It

By Colleen Delmolino

Reprint From July 1980 Ye Bay Stater

Even though our shows may be a distance away, one cannot procrastinate in regards to the care given African violets.

 REMEMBER—a few minutes a day keeps trouble away!

 It only takes a moment to check and see if plants need water, if their leaves should be brushed and/or washed; is it fertilizing time (if you don’t subscribe to the constant feed method); any signs of “trouble”? Catch “trouble” before it is too late. Does the plant need repotting?

Take each phase of the care that your African violet requires, step by step, and on a regular and consistent basis. That will help you to achieve success.

 Haphazard care and prolonged periods of neglect only breed trouble (and don’t be fooled by those who claim that their magnificent were only the products of “those who thrive on neglect.” That just isn’t so.) You might get away with letting a plant wilt once, but don’t think you can get away with it too often. And then one has the tendency to drown the same plant. Severe damage will eventually occur. So, again, we can’t let constant care go by the wayside.

 REMEMBER: A few minutes each day pays off in the end; and haphazard care and prolonged neglect will only result in failure.

Designing With African Violets

By Suzanne Ress

 Understanding the basics of using African violets in flower design will let people participate in several ways – it will deepen your appreciation of the creations of others and it might free you to try your hand at it yourself.

 1. Read the Show Schedule. The Schedule lets you know the theme for the designs, the image that you will interpret. It also tells you the restrictions for each design – size, allowable materials to use, type of accessory or color, all of which are important considerations. The Rules at the back of the Schedule must also be read, because they lay down the law regarding special circumstances; for example, can a design touch the sides of the niche, or who to contact to make your design reservation.

 2. Read the Design section of the AVSA Judges and Exhibitors Handbook. The Handbook is available from AVSA and the design section is a succinctly written guideline to design that can be a little overwhelming because it contains so much information. Reading it will give you an excellent base for understanding the components of a good design. Reading it will also give you an excellent understanding of what the judges are looking for and how they will score a design. The most creative interpretation will not do well if the designer does not incorporate the guidelines in the Schedule, the principles of design presented in the Handbook, and the scale of points used by the judges for that particular design class.

 3. The African violet must be the focal point of the design (except in Container Gardens). Step back from your creation and look at it. Your eye should naturally focus first on the African violet in the design. The accessories are there to support the African violet, add to the interpretation of the theme, and enhance the line and proportion of the overall design. You should not be distracted by the container, the other plant material used, the background, or by the proportions of the design not fitting the size of the niche used. Also, neatness really counts. The mechanics of your design should not show. This means the Oasis used to hold the flowers, or the plastic used to hold your root-ball, should not be seen. Blobs of glue, nails, tacks, tape, should all be invisible. Practice using these materials and take a hard look at your finished design to check for these faults.

 4. Once you have finished your design, go back and remove at least 1/3 of the material. When it comes to African violets and design, less is more. The delicate flowers and smaller leaves are easily overwhelmed by using masses of other plant material or get lost in elaborate containers (see Rule 3). Too much material obscures the line and flow of the design and makes it look heavy and blocky. It is important that you do at least one dry run before the show so you know what you’re going to do, what you’re going to use, and to give yourself a chance to evaluate and redo the design, if necessary. Because the proportion of the design to the niche size is extremely important, an invaluable aid is to use cardboard to build yourself a niche of the correct size. Then you can use it as you work to ensure that the design “fills the space”. Although this is not a hard-and-fast-rule, when I design, I try to place the violets in the middle third of the niche, so they are not too close to the base, and there will be material extending into the top 1/3 of the area.

 Other recommendations for improving your design skills include looking at pictures of Japanese flower design. Their use of space, line, and proportion will give you a good idea of what you should be looking for in your own designs. Buy a hot glue gun and practice with it. Hot glue is the designer’s friend, but takes getting used to. This next one will be very difficult for most of us – go to yard sales and craft stores and keep an eye out for stuff that could be put to good use in design.

 The people who came to the meeting and tried creating a 6-inch design all said they had a good time, were encouraged by their results, and were willing to do it again. What more can you ask for?