• The Question Corner By Lisa DiMambro 

Question: I am having problems with wicking my plants; how much wick should I use and what type? Do I let the reservoirs dry out? What about soil?

Answer: The number one problem most have after starting to wick their plants is rot, which is a result of the root ball being too wet. I suggest that you start with a soil mix containing at least 50% added, extra perlite; if the plants still seem too wet, add more. The goal is to keep the soil slightly moist. I don't recommend wicking a newly repotted plant if most of the roots have been taken off, or babies that are newly potted up as they do not have the root growth to absorb the water and the result will be rot.

 There are many different types of wicking material, from acrylic yarn, to panty hose strips to nylon cord. There is much debate over which one to use and whether to use one or two ply, or even to split the yarn or cord you are using to make it thinner. I have used many types over the years and have come to one conclusion--the type or thickness of the wick doesn't matter, unless it is too small to pull up enough water for the plant causing the plant to dry out. I have personally found that the #18 nylon Masons twine works the best for wicking. It is able to pull up enough water for even the heavy drinkers like large Chiritas in bloom, which is an advantage over yarn. If you let the reservoir and plant dry out (who, me??) you can just add water to the reservoir, and even a dry masons twine wick will pull up the water. Therefore, soaking wicks for 10 minutes to restart dry wicks is no longer necessary.

Another important issue in wick watering is your reservoirs. You should empty and rinse them with plain water at least every 3 weeks so fertilizer salts don’t build up to high levels.

In summary, your soil is the deciding factor. The wick will pull up as much moisture as your soil will hold, no more. So if you are wicking and your plants stay too wet, add more perlite to your mix. I also don't believe that the amount of wick that is in contact with the soil or water makes any difference, for the same reason. Also, if you have the correct balance in your soil, you do not need to let the reservoir dry out between waterings.

 

 

More Powdery Mildew Talk

By Nancy Manozzi

Powdery mildew distracts from the appearance of your African violet. While not always a major threat to the life of a violet, any unchecked disease or condition can have a negative effect on your plant. Powdery mildew can rapidly go through a collection. The mildew looks like a white or grayish powder, dusted all over the leaf of the plant. This mildew will affect all parts of your African violet, including new and old leaves, the leaf's undersides, petioles, flower stalks, and petals. The mildew spores have a small sucker that penetrates the surface of the plant. It sucks the sap of the leaves for food. Powdery mildew spores are always present in your plant room. It is the environmental condition that triggers the activism of airborne fungus of the disease. The conditions listed below are major causes:

1. High humidity

2. Temperature fluctuation -- high temperatures in the day and very cool temperatures in the evening and night

3. Stale air (old air)

4. Poor air circulation

5. Plants crowded too close together

6. Low light intensity.

You can prevent powdery mildew by changing the environment of your plant room. The two most important aspects of growing conditions that prevent powdery mildew are air movement and spacing your plants. Adding a fan into the room is a good idea. Space the African violets so that the leaves do not touch each other.

Another non chemical treatment is Lysol spray. This is a decent alternative if you don’t want to use a chemical. DO NOT spray directly on the plants, but around the growing area. The propellant is very cool and can kill the tender leaves.

The one product that most people use today to control powdery mildew is Phyton 27, a copper sulfate based product. Application is to spray every 7 to 10 days when the disease appears. Always read the instructions first. Follow the directions for one gallon of water with Phyton 27. Other chemicals that may be used are benomyl and funginex.

A few words of wisdom: the best situation is to NOT get powdery mildew in the first place by following the suggestions above and do not use any method on all of your plants. Try your method of choice on a few plants first. If all looks OK after a week or two, you’re probably safe to use the method on more of your collection.

Wick Watering African Violets

By Sharon McLaurin

 You can learn a lot from your fellow club members. A few months ago, Bay State met at a member’s house. She was gracious enough to let members see her collection. What I noticed mostly was that she was wick watering. Her plants were health and happy. Hum! I think I should try it.

Materials needed:

Container for a water reservoir:

Deli containers with lids, Canning jars, Containers Siamese fighting fish are sold in, Prescription containers with lids that invert and screw on are perfect for minis in Dixie cups 

Wicking material

Acrylic yarn, Nylon twine

The yarn and twine come in multiple plies. You need to use just one ply for wicking. Synthetic wicking material is best. Organic material will deteriorate quickly and stop functioning.

Hard ware

You can use crochet needle or a long upholstering needle to set the wick in your pot. I use the long upholstering needle to set my wick. I push the needle up from the bottom of the pot. I pull the wick through so it just reaches the top of the soil. I tap the wick down a little and cover it with soil.

Soil preparation

You need perlite filling ¼ of the base of your pot. The soil mix I use is 3 cups Sphagnum Peat, 3 cups Vermiculite, 3 cups Perlite, ¼ cup charcoal, 2 tbsp. Dolomite lime, 1 tbsp. Bone Meal, 1 tbsp. Superphosphate. Shake ingredients together so that everything is well mixed.

Watering

1/8^th of a teaspoon of fertilizer to a gallon of water

I found the benefit of wicking over the summer was that the plants were less stressed and had a continuous supply of water. Your pots should never touch the water. Only the wick goes in the reservoir.

What I am experimenting with for the winter months is putting water in the trays to up the humidity. Since the pots are up on the reservoir not touching water, the water in the tray will not touch the roots. When the dry house environment started early November, the flower buds were drying out. With the water in the tray the humidity is reversing this problem. Time will tell how they fair in the spring.

I love my violets and will try anything to keep them happy. Wicking makes it easier on me as I do not have the frequent watering chore. I examine, rotate and groom. Don’t forget that praising your little green friends can go a long way.

Happy Growing.

Anyone have any favorite books on  raising these glorious beauties?  I have resently moved and my plants are not happy. It's time to step up my knowledge to sooth them. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thank you.

Kelli

Powdery Mildew by Eleanor MacIver

In the January/February, 2003 issue of the African Violet Magazine, one method of combating powdery mildew is described as using 1 tablespoon of hydrogen peroxide per gallon of water, as a spray. I have tried this method, using very warm water, since water cools rapidly as it comes in contact with air. Cold water could mar the foliage. I sprayed only a few of my plants, all of which I had duplicates, and was quite pleased with the results.I tried this method as I use no toxic chemicals on my plants. 

After a 3 week period, I then sprayed all violets that showed any symptoms of mildew. I sprayed very generously, with the solution dripping from the leaves.

The result after 2 weeks of observation was interesting. The mildew was eliminated with no damage to any leaves except a light, milky appearance on some of them, which was easily rinsed off. However, all blooms that were close to going by, succumbed to the treatment, and a few of the healthy blooms received milky, mist spots.

The newer cultivars showed much less damage, and for the most part, none. The vintage violets and original 10, suffered the most noticeable damage. I did not spray my species, as oddly enough, none of them contacted powdery mildew, so I do not know how they would have responded.

This is a treatment that kills mildew on contact, and at the same time, refreshes the plant with nice, warm moisture, which they love. I’m sure the mildew will reappear as the treatment is not systemic, but, so far my collection is much happier.

If you try this method, please test your results on only a few plants at first, as growing conditions vary.

Growing African Violets Under Lights

Growing under fluorescent lights is a good way to provide proper light conditions for optimum growth. The various types of African violets need to be placed at different distances from the tubes and at different locations on the shelves.

Distance From Light Tubes

The table below shows the suggested distances from the top of the leaves to the bottom of the fluorescent tubes.

Type of African Violet	Distance from Light Tubes
Standards	12 to 15 inches
Semi-miniatures	8 to 10 inches
Miniatures	6 to 8 inches
Plantlets/Seedlings/Leaves	4 to 6 inches

Keep the lights on for at least 10 to 12 hours a day. Use an automatic timer. If it is hot during the day and cold at night in your growing area, you may want to run your lights at night. Just remember, plants need at least 8 hours of darkness as part of their growth cycle.

Placement on Shelves for Optimum Development

The color of the blossoms and the leaves will determine where to place the plants on the shelves.

Center of the Shelf

• Dark green leaves
• Dark colored blossoms (reds, blues, purples)
• Double blossoms
• Young plants and seedlings
• Flowering plants
  

Perimeter of Shelf

• Variegated leaves (bottom shelf)
• Light green leaves
• Light colored blossoms (whites, pinks)
• Older, mature plants
  

Use this information as a guide. Monitor your own growing conditions. If a plant has long petioles which are reaching up, move the plant closer to the light. If the leaves looked bleached or the leaves in the crown are tight, move further away from the lights.

Resource: Bill Daniels

 

 

 

Let There Be Light, The Challenge of Growing in Natural Light           By Sharon Rosenzweig)

 I have always grown African Violets in natural light. The growing area in my first house received morning sun. The next house was shaded and had very little sunlight. My current house has nothing but sun. As you would expect, my violets did best in the location with morning sun.

Growing African violets in natural light causes one to be pre-occupied with the daily weather report. The overriding questions I find myself faced with each morning are:

·       Will it be sunny today?

·       Do I raise the cellular shades or leave them lowered?

Then there are the quirky days when it is raining in the morning and the sun comes out full force in the afternoon!

Growing in natural light can produce a myriad of problems:  burn spots on leaves and flowers, bleached leaves and flowers, small flowers, tight centers, photo tropism (growing toward the source of light) and problems with symmetry – the leaves receiving more light will grow faster and larger. On the positive side, there are no timers to worry about and no tubes to replace.

So, if you have no space for light stands, or find them unattractive, you can still have success growing in natural light if you follow some simple rules:

·       If possible, select a window that receives morning sun, or has a tree outside to gently filter the sun.

·       For southern or western exposures, use light filtering curtains or shades on bright, sunny days. Raise or open them on rainy, cloudy days (beware of those aforementioned quirky days).

·       Cut back on fertilizer during the hottest summer months.

·       Be extra careful not to get water droplets on leaves to prevent burn spots.

·       Rotate the plants ¼ turn in the same direction every week to maintain symmetry.

Good luck and happy growing.

It’s Time for a Dust Buster Session

By Lynda C. Welchel

Reprinted from the September, 1990 African Violet Magazine

The next time you go into your living areas at home, stop and take a few moments to observe the dust that collects on your table tops, television screen, mirrors, plant lights, etc. That same amount of dust, and perhaps more things may be clogging the pores of your plants. Take a blanket from a bed and try shaking it. Notice the amount of dust that flies through the air. If our African violets are to be grown to their best potential, they must be kept free of excessive dust and debris.

Taking care of the debris portion is easy. This fact of care should be a matter of routine. Remove dead blossoms, damaged leaves, etc., as they occur. If dead leaves or blossoms are left on plants, fungal infections may develop and spread to the rest of your plant and possibly spread to the rest of your collection.

That constant pest, dust, will clog up the pores (the working surface of leaves) and hinder photosynthesis, thereby slowing down the growth of your plant. Whether we like it or not, dust is everywhere and unfortunately, here to stay. Sweeping your floor, dusting in your plant room, or running the vacuum, will not prevent dust from settling on your plants. In fact, the simple act of cleaning stirs up more dust, that will happily take up residence on your plants.

Look at an African violet leaf, you will see that it is hairy and therefore a master at trapping dust and anything else that is floating around in the environment. This may include residue from ant-fungus sprays, insecticide sprays, furniture polish (spray), air freshener, etc. If you keep your plants in your bathroom or dressing area, your plants may even be sporting a coat of hair spray or after bath powder! Put your ear very close to your plant, you may even hear it gasping for breath. Try putting a little hair spray on your arm. Let it dry, now you know what it feels like. Your plant is helpless to cleanse itself. Just imagine hair spray combined with dust, accumulating over a few months. It’s time for a “Dust Buster Session.”

There are two ways of removing dust and dirt from your plants, either by brushing or washing. Take a moment to look at a leaf of your African violet plant again. Notice the hairs on the leaf generally grow away from the center or crown of the plant. Brush the leaf with gentle strokes (a make up brush is great.) Do not use hard bristle brushes, as they will bruise the leaves. When attempting to rid your plants of dust, use a soft brush, but not too soft, because it will not adequately remove the dust. Be sure to support each leaf in turn, by placing your fingers underneath the leaf, to support it,  then brush away from the center of the plant. It is especially important to support the leaves of large standard plants.  They often times can be very brittle and I’m sure most of us have heard that dreaded crackling sound of a leaf breaking off and thereby ruining the symmetry. A petiole can be easily broken if you aren’t careful. You might try leaving on a leaf support while dusting off your leaves, for added safety.

If you brush your plants every 1 – 2 months, you will prevent any major build-up of dust and debris. One word of caution: if you think you have any pests or diseases on a plant, remember you can spread the problem as you go from plant to plant.

What about the case of neglected plants, or you have too many to brush each leaf on every plant individually? You may want to try your hand at washing your plants. Depending on the type of water you have, you may not want to use tap water to bathe your plants. Water that contains lime, salt or other additives may leave a residue on the plants, after they are washed. If this is the case, try using distilled water in a mister, instead of bathing your plants at the sink.

The most important thing to remember when bathing plants is to use warm water. If you decide to use a spray/mister, the water should be hot. By the time the water is sprayed out of the bottle, into the air, and onto the plant, it will have cooled considerably. If your water is suitable right out of your sink,, using warm water, hold the plant on it’s side and let a small stream of water run over the leaves, being careful not to wet the crown (center of the plant.) The warm water as it flows over the leaves, will carry water with it, the accumulated dust, spray residue, and those particles of perlite, etc. This procedure should be carried out under warm conditions in your home. Do not allow the plants to be exposed to drafts. If you are comfortable in a room, your plants will be comfortable also.

The plants should be allowed to dry before returning them to an area where they get direct sunlight and under no circumstances should they be exposed to sunlight when wet! If you happen to get any water in the crown of the plant, blot it up with a tissue, possibly leaving the tissue there for a few minutes to absorb any small droplets of water that may have been left behind. When I have finished bathing my plants, I usually place a paper towel over each one and a tissue on the crown, for a half hour or so, before I return them to the plant room and back under the lights.

Giving your plants a bath is best done in the morning hours, so the plant will have adequate time to dry before the cooler hours of the evening. Leaving your plants wet could cause mildew and other diseases. If you are growing under lights, you can return your plants to the light when there are no droplets of water visible.

Let the appearance of your plants guide you as to whether they need to be brushed or bathed. Conditions vary from grower to grower. Some homes have more dust than others. During the hot months, air conditioning certainly helps to remove dust from the air. The amount of traffic you have near your plants can make a difference too. Dust is stirred up by just walking past your plant stands. One area of the country may be drier than another and thus have more dust. If you have a dog or a cat, you may have the added problem of animal hair, especially during the warm months when our domestic pets tend to shed. There are many variables.

Keep your plants free of debris, and dusted. They will breathe better and you will breathe a sigh of relief before show time knowing you don’t have to risk washing your plant with a full head of blossoms and possibly cause injury to the plant. Spray residue and dust detract from African violets. Speaking of dust, remember to periodically dust the light tubes on your plant stand. Dust cuts down on the intensity of available light coming from your tubes.

Whether you are a casual admirer of African violets or an avid grower, this “TLC” will pay great dividends for the small amount of time invested. Listen carefully, your violets may be choking and whispering in desperation, “It’s time for another Dust Buster Session.”

Beating Those Looooong Winter Blues                                                                         By JoAnne Brown

It’s January and we all know what’s coming up. Remember last year? I didn’t see a spring bulb until April. This summer I did some thinking. Once again I’ve ordered and planted the earliest spring bulbs I could find. Snowdrops are always at the top of my list and by reading the fine print you can find quite a few other very early bulbs--even a narcissus or two. Then I recalled, with the help of a few magazines, that Hellebores (Lenten roses) and Hamamelis (Witch Hazel) can provide winter color, some as early as November! I planted one of each that I’ll be able to see from my favorite chair. This is a test to see if I really do have enough sun. Then I started a few amaryllis bulbs--my proven winners. The perfect antidote for winter.

We can’t control the conditions outside our windows but we know just what to do indoors: play in the dirt and grow African violets. Think of it as preventive health care--mental health, that is. Just spending time near the grow lights can make up for lack of real sunshine. I just love to cook up a batch of potting mix, spread out some newspapers and make a big mess repotting and grooming plants. Put on some music and forget the phone, it’s a mini vacation. I check each violet and decide if it’s worth taking up my limited growing space. Do I have enough blues? What does my collection need?

Do some research. Look through those catalogs. Go online and see what’s available. Join a local club. Besides the fun and learning, you’ll have a great place to get more leaves and have the fun of growing lots of babies.Join the AVSA and get those great articles and photos in the African Violet magazine that arrives every other month. You’ll find a new way to solve a problem, a growing technique, a potting mix recipe. At first I just saved a picture or two but now I save them all and go back to these magazines again and again. Don’t forget the November/December issue has the AVSA’s Best Variety List--try one of those favorites. The January/February issue has an index for the previous year.

Try something new. Think about a tiny trailer with little perfect leaves and flowers, maybe a variegated variety that you haven’t grown. It’s important for us to grow species plants and keep those genes alive. You could try a gesneriad. There are lots of new streps, variegated and scented. Some places will ship through the winter if you haven’t planned ahead. While you’re at it, give one to someone who needs a little sunshine. Don’t you feel better already?

The Question Corner

By Cheryl Salatino

 Question: When I had only a few African violets my plants seemed to be healthy and bloomed on a regular basis. Now that I have increased my collection, I seem to have lost the green thumb. What advice can you give to a grower who has learned all the basics, but can’t get the plants to perform?

Answer: Growing African Violets in New England can pose quite a challenge for even the most experienced grower. Our four seasons alone guarantee we’re in for constant change – and some ‘un-seasonal’ weather fluctuations. As a new grower, we quickly learn that a little tender loving care of our African Violets can yield great reward. The trouble usually comes when the collection increases and conditions change.

Consistency is the hidden secret – the missing ingredient – the fundamental must-have. Our New England environment works against consistency unless you work hard to maintain it. Take a thorough look at your growing conditions and determine the time and routine care you are able to provide. You found the ideal growing area for your first few African violets. Now that the collection has grown, your growing area has probably expanded or moved. You must carefully examine the existing conditions to determine if and when you achieve ideal conditions.

As you know, there are many factors that contribute to healthy plants. Start with these key elements to determine if consistency is contributing to your plant concerns.

Light. The optimal amount of light needed to grow healthy, blooming plants is typically 12 to 14 hours a day under florescent tubes. That requirement may be slightly reduced if using wide spectrum or special grow lights. Depending upon where your plant stands are located, natural daylight can be an added factor. As the angle of the sun changes during each season, the amount of natural light will vary. You may need to make modifications in the artificial light to accommodate for any light fluctuation. Of course, each plant also has unique light requirements, so watch its growth patterns to see if the placement on the shelf is ideal. Stronger light intensity occurs at the center of a florescent tube and the light weakens towards the ends.

Temperature. African violets like similar living conditions as most people – temperatures around 70 degrees. Our New England winters and summers really pose a problem with maintaining comfortable temps (at an affordable price). Consider alternatives in the growing area to minimize dramatic seasonal changes. Fans, cloth or plastic shelf covers, and heaters are just some of the options available to alter conditions. Be creative. And, don’t forget to assess the amount of humidity available during our four seasons. African violets thrive in a wide range from 40% to 70%. If you’re comfortable, it’s likely the plants will be too. If it’s too dry – try capillary mats, a humidifier, or add pebbles and water to the bottom of the trays. Remember extremes in either of these areas can have a negative effect on growth and blooming.

Water. Constant moisture is recommended for African Violets – not too dry and not too wet. Drown and drought conditions are a quick way to introduce problems and demonstrate a break in the culture of a plant. Remember, the temperature of the water also plays a role here. Tepid water is preferred. Often we leave water containers out overnight to allow chlorine to dissipate. During the cooler months, check to see if water in those containers has become too cold for the plants. Cold water can produce leaf spotting, curling of foliage, and slow down root and plant growth.

Once you’ve mastered the fundamental growing consistencies, take a look at the routine care you are able to give to your collection. Consistency in all areas of plant care really makes a difference.