Growing African Violets Under Lights

Growing under fluorescent lights is a good way to provide proper light conditions for optimum growth. The various types of African violets need to be placed at different distances from the tubes and at different locations on the shelves.

Distance From Light Tubes

The table below shows the suggested distances from the top of the leaves to the bottom of the fluorescent tubes.

Type of African Violet	Distance from Light Tubes
Standards	12 to 15 inches
Semi-miniatures	8 to 10 inches
Miniatures	6 to 8 inches
Plantlets/Seedlings/Leaves	4 to 6 inches

Keep the lights on for at least 10 to 12 hours a day. Use an automatic timer. If it is hot during the day and cold at night in your growing area, you may want to run your lights at night. Just remember, plants need at least 8 hours of darkness as part of their growth cycle.

Placement on Shelves for Optimum Development

The color of the blossoms and the leaves will determine where to place the plants on the shelves.

Center of the Shelf

• Dark green leaves
• Dark colored blossoms (reds, blues, purples)
• Double blossoms
• Young plants and seedlings
• Flowering plants
  

Perimeter of Shelf

• Variegated leaves (bottom shelf)
• Light green leaves
• Light colored blossoms (whites, pinks)
• Older, mature plants
  

Use this information as a guide. Monitor your own growing conditions. If a plant has long petioles which are reaching up, move the plant closer to the light. If the leaves looked bleached or the leaves in the crown are tight, move further away from the lights.

Resource: Bill Daniels

 

 

 

Let There Be Light, The Challenge of Growing in Natural Light           By Sharon Rosenzweig)

 I have always grown African Violets in natural light. The growing area in my first house received morning sun. The next house was shaded and had very little sunlight. My current house has nothing but sun. As you would expect, my violets did best in the location with morning sun.

Growing African violets in natural light causes one to be pre-occupied with the daily weather report. The overriding questions I find myself faced with each morning are:

·       Will it be sunny today?

·       Do I raise the cellular shades or leave them lowered?

Then there are the quirky days when it is raining in the morning and the sun comes out full force in the afternoon!

Growing in natural light can produce a myriad of problems:  burn spots on leaves and flowers, bleached leaves and flowers, small flowers, tight centers, photo tropism (growing toward the source of light) and problems with symmetry – the leaves receiving more light will grow faster and larger. On the positive side, there are no timers to worry about and no tubes to replace.

So, if you have no space for light stands, or find them unattractive, you can still have success growing in natural light if you follow some simple rules:

·       If possible, select a window that receives morning sun, or has a tree outside to gently filter the sun.

·       For southern or western exposures, use light filtering curtains or shades on bright, sunny days. Raise or open them on rainy, cloudy days (beware of those aforementioned quirky days).

·       Cut back on fertilizer during the hottest summer months.

·       Be extra careful not to get water droplets on leaves to prevent burn spots.

·       Rotate the plants ¼ turn in the same direction every week to maintain symmetry.

Good luck and happy growing.

It’s Time for a Dust Buster Session

By Lynda C. Welchel

Reprinted from the September, 1990 African Violet Magazine

The next time you go into your living areas at home, stop and take a few moments to observe the dust that collects on your table tops, television screen, mirrors, plant lights, etc. That same amount of dust, and perhaps more things may be clogging the pores of your plants. Take a blanket from a bed and try shaking it. Notice the amount of dust that flies through the air. If our African violets are to be grown to their best potential, they must be kept free of excessive dust and debris.

Taking care of the debris portion is easy. This fact of care should be a matter of routine. Remove dead blossoms, damaged leaves, etc., as they occur. If dead leaves or blossoms are left on plants, fungal infections may develop and spread to the rest of your plant and possibly spread to the rest of your collection.

That constant pest, dust, will clog up the pores (the working surface of leaves) and hinder photosynthesis, thereby slowing down the growth of your plant. Whether we like it or not, dust is everywhere and unfortunately, here to stay. Sweeping your floor, dusting in your plant room, or running the vacuum, will not prevent dust from settling on your plants. In fact, the simple act of cleaning stirs up more dust, that will happily take up residence on your plants.

Look at an African violet leaf, you will see that it is hairy and therefore a master at trapping dust and anything else that is floating around in the environment. This may include residue from ant-fungus sprays, insecticide sprays, furniture polish (spray), air freshener, etc. If you keep your plants in your bathroom or dressing area, your plants may even be sporting a coat of hair spray or after bath powder! Put your ear very close to your plant, you may even hear it gasping for breath. Try putting a little hair spray on your arm. Let it dry, now you know what it feels like. Your plant is helpless to cleanse itself. Just imagine hair spray combined with dust, accumulating over a few months. It’s time for a “Dust Buster Session.”

There are two ways of removing dust and dirt from your plants, either by brushing or washing. Take a moment to look at a leaf of your African violet plant again. Notice the hairs on the leaf generally grow away from the center or crown of the plant. Brush the leaf with gentle strokes (a make up brush is great.) Do not use hard bristle brushes, as they will bruise the leaves. When attempting to rid your plants of dust, use a soft brush, but not too soft, because it will not adequately remove the dust. Be sure to support each leaf in turn, by placing your fingers underneath the leaf, to support it,  then brush away from the center of the plant. It is especially important to support the leaves of large standard plants.  They often times can be very brittle and I’m sure most of us have heard that dreaded crackling sound of a leaf breaking off and thereby ruining the symmetry. A petiole can be easily broken if you aren’t careful. You might try leaving on a leaf support while dusting off your leaves, for added safety.

If you brush your plants every 1 – 2 months, you will prevent any major build-up of dust and debris. One word of caution: if you think you have any pests or diseases on a plant, remember you can spread the problem as you go from plant to plant.

What about the case of neglected plants, or you have too many to brush each leaf on every plant individually? You may want to try your hand at washing your plants. Depending on the type of water you have, you may not want to use tap water to bathe your plants. Water that contains lime, salt or other additives may leave a residue on the plants, after they are washed. If this is the case, try using distilled water in a mister, instead of bathing your plants at the sink.

The most important thing to remember when bathing plants is to use warm water. If you decide to use a spray/mister, the water should be hot. By the time the water is sprayed out of the bottle, into the air, and onto the plant, it will have cooled considerably. If your water is suitable right out of your sink,, using warm water, hold the plant on it’s side and let a small stream of water run over the leaves, being careful not to wet the crown (center of the plant.) The warm water as it flows over the leaves, will carry water with it, the accumulated dust, spray residue, and those particles of perlite, etc. This procedure should be carried out under warm conditions in your home. Do not allow the plants to be exposed to drafts. If you are comfortable in a room, your plants will be comfortable also.

The plants should be allowed to dry before returning them to an area where they get direct sunlight and under no circumstances should they be exposed to sunlight when wet! If you happen to get any water in the crown of the plant, blot it up with a tissue, possibly leaving the tissue there for a few minutes to absorb any small droplets of water that may have been left behind. When I have finished bathing my plants, I usually place a paper towel over each one and a tissue on the crown, for a half hour or so, before I return them to the plant room and back under the lights.

Giving your plants a bath is best done in the morning hours, so the plant will have adequate time to dry before the cooler hours of the evening. Leaving your plants wet could cause mildew and other diseases. If you are growing under lights, you can return your plants to the light when there are no droplets of water visible.

Let the appearance of your plants guide you as to whether they need to be brushed or bathed. Conditions vary from grower to grower. Some homes have more dust than others. During the hot months, air conditioning certainly helps to remove dust from the air. The amount of traffic you have near your plants can make a difference too. Dust is stirred up by just walking past your plant stands. One area of the country may be drier than another and thus have more dust. If you have a dog or a cat, you may have the added problem of animal hair, especially during the warm months when our domestic pets tend to shed. There are many variables.

Keep your plants free of debris, and dusted. They will breathe better and you will breathe a sigh of relief before show time knowing you don’t have to risk washing your plant with a full head of blossoms and possibly cause injury to the plant. Spray residue and dust detract from African violets. Speaking of dust, remember to periodically dust the light tubes on your plant stand. Dust cuts down on the intensity of available light coming from your tubes.

Whether you are a casual admirer of African violets or an avid grower, this “TLC” will pay great dividends for the small amount of time invested. Listen carefully, your violets may be choking and whispering in desperation, “It’s time for another Dust Buster Session.”

Beating Those Looooong Winter Blues                                                                         By JoAnne Brown

It’s January and we all know what’s coming up. Remember last year? I didn’t see a spring bulb until April. This summer I did some thinking. Once again I’ve ordered and planted the earliest spring bulbs I could find. Snowdrops are always at the top of my list and by reading the fine print you can find quite a few other very early bulbs--even a narcissus or two. Then I recalled, with the help of a few magazines, that Hellebores (Lenten roses) and Hamamelis (Witch Hazel) can provide winter color, some as early as November! I planted one of each that I’ll be able to see from my favorite chair. This is a test to see if I really do have enough sun. Then I started a few amaryllis bulbs--my proven winners. The perfect antidote for winter.

We can’t control the conditions outside our windows but we know just what to do indoors: play in the dirt and grow African violets. Think of it as preventive health care--mental health, that is. Just spending time near the grow lights can make up for lack of real sunshine. I just love to cook up a batch of potting mix, spread out some newspapers and make a big mess repotting and grooming plants. Put on some music and forget the phone, it’s a mini vacation. I check each violet and decide if it’s worth taking up my limited growing space. Do I have enough blues? What does my collection need?

Do some research. Look through those catalogs. Go online and see what’s available. Join a local club. Besides the fun and learning, you’ll have a great place to get more leaves and have the fun of growing lots of babies.Join the AVSA and get those great articles and photos in the African Violet magazine that arrives every other month. You’ll find a new way to solve a problem, a growing technique, a potting mix recipe. At first I just saved a picture or two but now I save them all and go back to these magazines again and again. Don’t forget the November/December issue has the AVSA’s Best Variety List--try one of those favorites. The January/February issue has an index for the previous year.

Try something new. Think about a tiny trailer with little perfect leaves and flowers, maybe a variegated variety that you haven’t grown. It’s important for us to grow species plants and keep those genes alive. You could try a gesneriad. There are lots of new streps, variegated and scented. Some places will ship through the winter if you haven’t planned ahead. While you’re at it, give one to someone who needs a little sunshine. Don’t you feel better already?

The Question Corner

By Cheryl Salatino

 Question: When I had only a few African violets my plants seemed to be healthy and bloomed on a regular basis. Now that I have increased my collection, I seem to have lost the green thumb. What advice can you give to a grower who has learned all the basics, but can’t get the plants to perform?

Answer: Growing African Violets in New England can pose quite a challenge for even the most experienced grower. Our four seasons alone guarantee we’re in for constant change – and some ‘un-seasonal’ weather fluctuations. As a new grower, we quickly learn that a little tender loving care of our African Violets can yield great reward. The trouble usually comes when the collection increases and conditions change.

Consistency is the hidden secret – the missing ingredient – the fundamental must-have. Our New England environment works against consistency unless you work hard to maintain it. Take a thorough look at your growing conditions and determine the time and routine care you are able to provide. You found the ideal growing area for your first few African violets. Now that the collection has grown, your growing area has probably expanded or moved. You must carefully examine the existing conditions to determine if and when you achieve ideal conditions.

As you know, there are many factors that contribute to healthy plants. Start with these key elements to determine if consistency is contributing to your plant concerns.

Light. The optimal amount of light needed to grow healthy, blooming plants is typically 12 to 14 hours a day under florescent tubes. That requirement may be slightly reduced if using wide spectrum or special grow lights. Depending upon where your plant stands are located, natural daylight can be an added factor. As the angle of the sun changes during each season, the amount of natural light will vary. You may need to make modifications in the artificial light to accommodate for any light fluctuation. Of course, each plant also has unique light requirements, so watch its growth patterns to see if the placement on the shelf is ideal. Stronger light intensity occurs at the center of a florescent tube and the light weakens towards the ends.

Temperature. African violets like similar living conditions as most people – temperatures around 70 degrees. Our New England winters and summers really pose a problem with maintaining comfortable temps (at an affordable price). Consider alternatives in the growing area to minimize dramatic seasonal changes. Fans, cloth or plastic shelf covers, and heaters are just some of the options available to alter conditions. Be creative. And, don’t forget to assess the amount of humidity available during our four seasons. African violets thrive in a wide range from 40% to 70%. If you’re comfortable, it’s likely the plants will be too. If it’s too dry – try capillary mats, a humidifier, or add pebbles and water to the bottom of the trays. Remember extremes in either of these areas can have a negative effect on growth and blooming.

Water. Constant moisture is recommended for African Violets – not too dry and not too wet. Drown and drought conditions are a quick way to introduce problems and demonstrate a break in the culture of a plant. Remember, the temperature of the water also plays a role here. Tepid water is preferred. Often we leave water containers out overnight to allow chlorine to dissipate. During the cooler months, check to see if water in those containers has become too cold for the plants. Cold water can produce leaf spotting, curling of foliage, and slow down root and plant growth.

Once you’ve mastered the fundamental growing consistencies, take a look at the routine care you are able to give to your collection. Consistency in all areas of plant care really makes a difference.

The Question Corner           By Peg Eaton Crawford

Answer: The two-piece ceramic pots you have described have become quite popular in recent years, partially for their good looks and partially because some folks have had great success using these pots. I say “some folks” because it’s necessary to take a couple of steps to ensure that your African violets will be happy when transplanted into their new home.

First, it’s necessary to understand just how these pots work. They consist of two pieces. One is a round glazed, decorative ceramic reservoir that works as the “outside” portion of the pot. The second is an “inside” ceramic pot, with no drainage hole and with a lip just slightly wider than the diameter of the outside container so that it will sit, resting tidily in the opening of the outer container. The “outside” container, which is generally decorative, serves as a holder for fertilized water. The African violet is planted within the “inside” container (usually designed in what we think of as a traditional flowerpot shape). This interior pot is about 2/3rds unglazed, and that portion of the ceramic material is porous, allowing moisture from the outside area to seep or wick into the potting soil contained within.

Because our African violets enjoy evenly moist soil conditions and a “constant-feed” situation, this setup really should be ideal. However, as in “Murphy’s Law”, things can often go wrong! The first problem can occur if your soil mix is not light and porous enough. If it’s too dense, containing a lot of organic material or water-holding vermiculite, it will soak up too much moisture, causing the violet’s roots to be overwatered. This can result in root rot, limp leaves, poor growth and the possible loss of the plant. That’s why it’s so important to ensure that your soil mix is very light and “fluffy”, similar to one designed for traditional “wicking.” Another good idea is to put approximately an inch of perlite in the bottom of the interior pot. This will act as a sort of barrier where air can circulate between the water and the root system.

Another potential problem is fertilizer burn, which can result because this type of pot is continually drawing fertilized water up into the plant. Symptoms of fertilizer build up can be a thin crust of rusty-colored “salts” showing on new plant growth, which can actually “burn” the tips of tender young leaves. Therefore, it’s probably a good idea to repot with a fresh, light soil mixture every six months, to ensure maximum health. Also, make sure the water/fertilizer mixture that you are putting in the reservoir is on the “weak” side. Rather then the common proportion of 1/4^th of a teaspoon of fertilizer to each gallon of water, it might be better to reduce that to 1/8^th of a teaspoon to a gallon for this type of container. In the interim, be sure to use plain (unfertilized) water in the outer reservoir on occasion.

When using these two-piece ceramic pots, be sure to choose the right size plant for your pot. Because soil conditions, even with a “lighter” soil mix, are going to be moist most of the time, be sure you are putting a plant with a fully developed root system into the inner pot, not a rootless “sucker” or small baby plant. If your plant is too small and/or underdeveloped for the size of the pot, there’s a good chance that this container will overwater the plant.

In certain areas of the country, the water may contain a high level of certain minerals, and the buildup of these minerals over time could eventually clog the unglazed material of the inner pot. If this type of buildup occurs, the fertilized water solution in the outer container may not be able to properly wick into the inner container and the soil will dry out. If you notice this has happened to you there are a couple of things that can be done to “revitalize” your ceramic pot. You can give the outside of the “inner” pot a thorough going-over with a nylon “pot-scrubbing” sponge to try and remove any mineral deposits and algae that may have grown on the inner pot blocking the pores. If this doesn’t seem to do the trick, remove the violet from the container (a great opportunity to repot your violet!) and soak it in a product designed for removing hard water deposits, rinsing thoroughly afterwards to remove any chemical residue.

These two-piece ceramic containers look great, and are wonderful for the grower with a smallish collection of African violets. However, as with anything new, don’t rush and repot ALL your precious violets into this type of pot. Experiment with one or two, and watch them for a couple of months to make sure they are adjusting to their new “home.” If you find these two-piece ceramic self-watering pots work for you, that’s terrific! They are readily available in garden centers, specialty shops and chain stores like Wal-Mart and Home Depot, and can really help make life a little bit easier for the busy African violet lover.

The Secret to Beautiful Violets, a Beginner’s Odyssey

By Cindy Brooks

I’ve been searching for this article. The one thing I can do to insure my plants are the very best. I’ve looked in the library, the internet, books and magazines and asked every seasoned grower I know. What is the secret to growing these amazing plants?

I was told to start with good plants. Well, that’s easy. There are always opportunities to buy nice plants and I certainly availed myself of this option. In fact, I very quickly had a decent collection. But they didn’t thrive or last long.

Join a club. I was amazed at the talent and wealth of knowledge I found. Also, it is no coincidence that my plant repotting dates are shortly after the day of the month our club meetings fall on. Motivation abounds after spending time with other people who are as interested in violets as I am. Still my plants weren’t the show plants I desired.

Well, I need a plant stand, of course. My husband balked at the cost. “You want to spend how much?” So I made do with window growing. My plants did pretty well, but I’m sure I’d do so much better with a lighted plant stand.

Soil improvements were another suggestion. Add more perlite I was told and you must sift your perlite. Try these self watering pots, that’ll help. One more improvement to my growing conditions and I am starting to see results. This is encouraging. But still I am having problems. Yellow tipped leaves, green soil, and uneven growth. More answers at the next club meeting.

Too much fertilizer I was told. OK, try alternating. Better. You must rotate your plants that will help with the uneven growth and you need to groom. Also, better. Physan 20? Yes, I found this product. It helps. Then an excellent grower gave me some alarming advice. Throw out your sad plants and don’t look back. This turns out to be really good advice. Now, I spend my time and effort on worthy plants.

Things are looking up. Then I was gifted with a used, lighted plant stand. What joy! A little bit of repair and I am up and growing. My plants are very happy. Healthy plants, vibrant green leaves. Alas, no flowers. I am looking forward to that next meeting where I will find advice, encouragement and answers.

I believe the secret to beautiful violets is to keep trying, keep learning and go to club meetings. I’ll get there eventually.

 

The Question Corner By Cheryl Salatino

Question: When I had only a few African violets my plants seemed to be healthy and bloomed on a regular basis. Now that I have increased my collection, I seem to have lost the green thumb. What advice can you give to a grower who has learned all the basics, but can’t get the plants to perform?

Answer: Growing African Violets in New England can pose quite a challenge for even the most experienced grower. Our four seasons alone guarantee we’re in for constant change – and some ‘un-seasonal’ weather fluctuations. As a new grower, we quickly learn that a little tender loving care of our African Violets can yield great reward. The trouble usually comes when the collection increases and conditions change.

Consistency is the hidden secret – the missing ingredient – the fundamental must-have. Our New England environment works against consistency unless you work hard to maintain it. Take a thorough look at your growing conditions and determine the time and routine care you are able to provide. You found the ideal growing area for your first few African violets. Now that the collection has grown, your growing area has probably expanded or moved. You must carefully examine the existing conditions to determine if and when you achieve ideal conditions.

As you know, there are many factors that contribute to healthy plants. Start with these key elements to determine if consistency is contributing to your plant concerns.

Light. The optimal amount of light needed to grow healthy, blooming plants is typically 12 to 14 hours a day under florescent tubes. That requirement may be slightly reduced if using wide spectrum or special grow lights. Depending upon where your plant stands are located, natural daylight can be an added factor. As the angle of the sun changes during each season, the amount of natural light will vary. You may need to make modifications in the artificial light to accommodate for any light fluctuation. Of course, each plant also has unique light requirements, so watch its growth patterns to see if the placement on the shelf is ideal. Stronger light intensity occurs at the center of a florescent tube and the light weakens towards the ends.

Temperature. African violets like similar living conditions as most people – temperatures around 70 degrees. Our New England winters and summers really pose a problem with maintaining comfortable temps (at an affordable price). Consider alternatives in the growing area to minimize dramatic seasonal changes. Fans, cloth or plastic shelf covers, and heaters are just some of the options available to alter conditions. Be creative. And, don’t forget to assess the amount of humidity available during our four seasons. African violets thrive in a wide range from 40% to 70%. If you’re comfortable, it’s likely the plants will be too. If it’s too dry – try capillary mats, a humidifier, or add pebbles and water to the bottom of the trays. Remember extremes in either of these areas can have a negative effect on growth and blooming.

Water. Constant moisture is recommended for African Violets – not too dry and not too wet. Drown and drought conditions are a quick way to introduce problems and demonstrate a break in the culture of a plant. Remember, the temperature of the water also plays a role here. Tepid water is preferred. Often we leave water containers out overnight to allow chlorine to dissipate. During the cooler months, check to see if water in those containers has become too cold for the plants. Cold water can produce leaf spotting, curling of foliage, and slow down root and plant growth.

Once you’ve mastered the fundamental growing consistencies, take a look at the routine care you are able to give to your collection. Consistency in all areas of plant care really makes a difference.

Basic Essentials

Among the many factors that are needed when growing healthy African violets are humidity and water. Just as we human beings benefit from living in a more humid environment, so will our violets benefit from a higher level of humidity. Remember that the original African violet species grew in the rain forests of Africa. It may not be easy to determine whether violets need greater humidity. A few signs may include buds that drop or fail to open, dull looking leaves and a general lack of good growth.

Upping the humidity level is a relatively simple matter. Violets will benefit from a humidity level in the 40-70% range. This may be accomplished in several ways. A humidifier may be placed in the plant room. Violets can be misted with warm or room temperature water. This should be done early enough in the day that the foliage will be dry before the lights go out. Plants may be placed on capillary matting or pebbles. I have some plastic crating material that has been cut to fit the plant trays. The plants sit on the crating which keeps them raised about an inch above the water. When I water my violets, the excess water stays in the trays. Wick watering will also provide additional humidity. One problem with all of these methods is the growth of algae on the trays, mats and containers. Regular cleaning with a dilute bleach solution (1 teaspoon bleach to a gallon of water) will work. Physan 20 (1 teaspoon to a gallon of water) will also work at inhibiting algae growth.

Water quality can make a difference in how violets grow. When I first began growing violets, I was using tap water. My violets were dull looking and were not doing well at all. I called the local water board and found out that my tap water had fluoride added and was in general very alkaline. If you think that your water may be a problem finding out the mineral content is the first thing to do. We began saving the water from the dehumidifier for use on our violets. Other  options would be to draw the water and let it stand overnight before using, or try bottled water from one of those self-service vending units. Softened water is not recommended for violet watering as it is high in sodium.

Once the source of water has been settled, it is time to actually do the watering.

Rule 1, never use cold water. Always let the water get to room temperature.

Rule 2, water plants only when they need it. Both over

watering and under watering can damage plants. Soil should be moist to the touch but not damp.

          Rule 3, violets may be watered from the top or from the bottom whichever is easiest. Water may get onto leaves as long as the violet is not sitting in direct light where the water droplet would serve as a magnifying glass and spot or burn the leaf. It is also usually suggested that water not be allowed to sit in the plant center. By using a watering can with a long spout, the spout may be worked under a leaf for top watering thus avoiding this issue.

          Rule 4, do not permit the violet to sit in water for longer than thirty minutes. Violets do not like “wet feet”.

The entire violet collection may not need watering at the same time due to the size of the plants, their maturities, location on the plant stand etc., however, it is not realistic to water a few plants here and there. One solution might be to place all small plants together knowing that these may need more frequent watering. Plants on lower shelves may not need watering as frequently as those on upper, and thus warmer, shelves. Room temperatures will also affect water frequency. One solution to this is to consider wick watering. By placing violets on a wick, they will absorb only the amount of water needed. The reservoirs can be filled without concern for wet feet and damage to leaves. I find wick watering is also helpful when I am busy and may not get to my violets on a regular schedule.

Consistency is important. As a judge, I frequently see a plant that shows ‘changes in growing conditions‘. I can see it in my own plants when I have not been faithful to a watering and fertilizing regime.

Experiment with what works best under your growing conditions and fits into your lifestyle.

Enjoy your violets!

Good Grooming By Suzanne Ress 

There is a relationship between personal grooming and how to take care of an African violet.

	ME	My African Violet
Regularly	Shower, brush hair, deodorant, vitamins	Water and fertilize, turn, remove spent leaves, check for bugs
Scheduled	Hair cut, teeth cleaning, physical exam, exercise	Repot, disbud
Special Event	Shower, shave, new hair cut, manicure, new outfit	Repot, groom for symmetry, bloom boost, monitor light

As you go through your day, week, or season, you follow certain personal patterns:

·       Your daily maintenance to keep clean and socially acceptable; for your African violet you would water and fertilize, if necessary, check for bugs and powdery mildew, remove spent leaves, and rotate the plant so that the leaves grow symmetrically and don’t start leaning towards your light source.·        

·       On a regular basis you take responsibility for maintaining your health with dental and physical exams, exercise (yeah, right…), and haircuts; for your African violets, regular repotting keeps them healthy and maintains a continuous growing pattern. If you’ve been removing spent leaves, then a neck needs to be scraped and potted down; or for trailers or standard sized plants, you may need to go up a pot size. If you plan to enter this plant in a show, then you might want to disbud to let your plant’s growing energy focus on foliage. Check your lights to see if they’re getting spent or if you grow under natural light, check that the plants are not too close, too far, or getting sunburned.·        

·       For that special event, you go all out, new outfit, special care in your grooming and makeup, maybe even a new hair style, a facial, pedicure, and manicure (yum!) Well African violets need special attention if they’re going to be shown. A lot of the work is done in the three months before the show (see “Grow To Show”), but for the show itself, you want to provide a clean pot, clean leaves, symmetrical growth, and lots of blooms.

It’s the Special Event, i.e., show, preparation that needs a little more time and attention.

• For example, you should wash the leaves. When the plant has buds, not open blossoms, remove accumulated dust and cat hair by gently rinsing the leaves. What I do is run a very gentle stream of lukewarm water from my kitchen tap, put a glob of dishwashing soap by the side of the sink, and tear up a few paper towels into strips or chunks (don’t obsess). Then I take my plant, hold it at an angle so the water doesn’t run towards the stem, wet a leaf, put a dab of soap on my thumb, gently rub the leaf, and then rinse it off. I do this to all the bigger leaves and don’t worry about the newer, smaller, center leaves. I then dry each leaf off by using the torn edge of the paper towel to suck up the water drops, and then pat the leaf dry, top and underside. As long as I don’t drop the plant, this method works wonders. I always find that the plants really do look healthier and seem to grow better after a bath.
•  
• Repotting seems like a no-brainer. Every time you repot, you are giving the plant new, unspent, un-degraded growing medium, which allows it to take up nutrients more efficiently.
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• Speaking of nutrients, while you should feed your plants with diluted fertilizer when you do your regular watering, for a show plant, you want to boost the flower power (number of blooms is ¼ of the plant’s score in an AVSA show), so use a bloom-booster fertilizer starting about 3 months before the show. If you want to get sort of scientific about bloom boosting, then monitor each plant’s bloom cycle, how long from disbudding to bud formation, how long from bud appearance to open bloom, and how long does a bloom last. With this type of information, you can really tailor your fertilizing schedule to, hopefully, get optimum bloom at show time; otherwise, just go with the average, which seems to be about 3 months from disbudding to blooming.
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• The day before or day of the show, take a good look at your plant under strong light If your vision isn’t the greatest, call in some knowledgeable help from someone (a club member, perhaps.) This is one of the most important steps you can take to ensure that your plant gets the ribbon it (and you) really deserve. Judges deduct for lack of symmetry in growth and bloom, dirty leaves, spent leaves, spent buds and flowers, suckers, and marred leaves, not to mention plants that are under potted (pot too small for the size of the plant), over potted (pot too big for the size of the plant), plant not centered in the pot, and plant too big for it’s size category (semi-minis no greater than 8” across, and minis no greater than 6” across – embroidery hoops are your friends and great tools to use to monitor for correct sizing.) Remove everything that shouldn’t be there Repot, if necessary, and slip-pot with a same size pot if your pot isn’t pristine. This is a good way to keep the label with the plant’s name on it intact, too.
  

Pack up your beauties so that they don’t touch, won’t slide around, and have support for their leaves. Make sure they are covered to protect them from air-borne and wind-borne stuff, and put them on the floor of your car or in the trunk (why do you think they shouldn’t go on the seat?) Bring some grooming tools with you because if Classification sees something that shouldn’t be there, you will have to fix it. Any sign of any sort of bug or heavy powdery mildew will disqualify your plant, which is another reason to take a good look at it before it hits the show hall.

So, go take a nice, calming bath, extend your love to your plants, and go for it!